Surfing is Not My Escape

Surfing is Not My Escape

Surfing is not my escape. It’s not a place where nothing else matters. Actually, it’s the place where everything matters. The idea that the ocean and surfing washes away our problems is inherently problematic, at least it is for me.  I didn’t grow up surfing or...
How Surfing Saved My Health

How Surfing Saved My Health

Surfing made me realize things in my life needed to change. Between the ages of 23-26 I struggled to learn how to surf. In that time I learnt how to read the waves, understand tides and the etiquette of surfing. I never rode a green wave in those 3 years.  Growing up...